Mortal Taste

I once offered to cut off my arm in exchange for a tour of an illegal noodle-making operation.

I reached this peak of desperation in 2007 while on assignment in the southern port of Xiamen, where I was trying to capture the clandestine nature of China’s countless unregulated manufacturers – many of them out to make a quick buck regardless of public health – who lay at the heart of recurring problems with food and drug safety.

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