THE DEMOCRATIC People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK) established its state-owned tourism organization in 1955, initially to welcome visi­tors from other socialist countries and then a small number of visitors from ‘non-aligned’ states. It wasn’t until 1987 that citizens of Western nations were admitted on tourist visas. The first brave group to venture into this unknown country were Australians; their North Korean guides love to repeat stories about this first group – how one guide mistook the offer of a meal  for a suggestion of a suicide pact, for example.

     Koryo Tours, where I work as general manager, started organising tours in 1993 and rapidly became the market leader and the only recognized specialist in the field. Since then many other companies – from Europe, the United States, Canada, Singapore and elsewhere – have dipped in and out of this small but fascinating market.

     North Korea presently divides tourists into three main groups: Chinese, Malaysians and Europeans. Given that officials choose not to provide accurate numbers for these visitors, estimates are between 30,000 to 50,000 Chinese and between 2,000 and 5,000 Malaysians per year, and in 2011, around 3,000 Europeans, half of them through Koryo Tours.

     In the world of North Korean tourism ‘Europe’ encompasses North and South America, Africa, the Middle East, Asia, Oceania and, of course, Europe. Before 2010 the United States was not considered part of ‘Europe’ and had its own specific restrictions. In a perverse form of means testing, US citizens were charged higher prices than other nationals for the privilege of entering the country. Some niggling restrictions remain: hotels in some towns and cities may not accept American guests and US passport holders are not allowed to travel in or out of the country by train.

     In many ways the structures of the DPRK state and society mirror those of the Soviet Union or China; however, there are also lingering elements of Confucianism, such as respect for elders and obeisance to a rigid authoritarian hierarchy. But it would be a mistake to believe that the more than 20 million people who live there are an example of a hive mind; they have their own thoughts, preferences, feelings and characteristics. They may share the national aims of their monolithic state such as the annihilation of their enemy, the reunification of Korea, the ultimate victory of Korean socialism, the withdrawal of US troops from South Korea, a nuclear deterrent and an end to the economic blockade they blame for many of their well-known problems; but they also hope their lives will improve and that their children will be well educated. They want their parents to be healthy and to lead long lives; they want to marry a pretty woman or a handsome man, to make money and to be entertained.

     What do tourists actually see when they visit North Korea? Are they unwitting dupes dragged around a Potemkin city in a Potemkin country and then out to some Potemkin towns and villages where trained locals and undercover agents pretend they are living in paradise? That’s what many expect. The truth, however, is more complicated. Yes, there are a limited number of places tourists are allowed to go and a much larger number of places where tourists are not allowed; but the former expands every year while the latter gradually diminishes. In the last decade the number of places open to tourists has more than doubled and the disparity in infrastructure between Pyongyang and other parts of the country has become clearly visible. Tour guides will discuss topics their charges expect to be off limits, such as food supplies and national security policy. There are still taboo topics, but there is nevertheless a perceptible and increasing openness in official and general attitudes towards tourism. Tour companies such as ours create bespoke itineraries: trips to remote

     areas can be arranged and homestays are possible (in one beachside village); tickets to local football matches can be obtained; and festivities and Sunday picnics can be crashed and shared. Such possibilities are in addition to visiting official sites where North Korea’s version of history is set out.

     No one can deny that the DPRK is a deeply troubled state, that the clash of wills over this small peninsula is potentially dangerous and that this could affect the future of millions of people. No tourist is expected to join the North Korean national cause or pretend to agree with the ideas and histories they are shown. Tourists learn what is going on as best they can: directly in some ways, by inference in others.

     Many tourists develop an abiding interest in the country, and some return year after year. Others have developed impressive reputations for their online travelogues or their Flickr photosets. Some of Koryo Tours’ most worthwhile trips have been with international students who meet, however fleetingly, their counterparts in North Korea. We have also arranged amateur sporting events with and against local teams in football, basketball, volleyball, ice hockey, cricket and even Frisbee.

     Tourists go to North Korea with many questions; they return with many more, but also with an increasing number of answers. Though a holiday in North Korea is certainly not for everyone, those who are fascinated by this enigmatic place find it offers its own rewards. A week at a beach resort may be temporarily refreshing but the same amount of time in the DPRK provides an experience that will resonate for a lifetime.