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Volume 21, Autumn 2011: Food
Non-fiction | Global
History à la Carte Felipe Fernández-Armesto
Historians quarrel about when and how and in what respects the rising “West” overtook the declining “East” in technology, science, ideas and sheer power, and how far the process has already begun to go into reverse. If we focus on food, we can see the ebb and flow of influences with some clarity.
Fiction | Australia
The Chinese Meal, Uneaten Bernard Cohen

She poked at a small strip of lamb with the tip of her spoon. In any ethnic restaurant it was our practice to doubt the provenance and more particularly the species of the meat. This dated from a tour-group holiday three years earlier, in which we had spent a short time in the company of a meat inspector from Darwin.

“What do you think this is?”

“Meat,” I said.

“Aren’t we all?”

The problem with my ex-wife was bluntness and aggressive passivity that would make a cliff seem friendly, from top or bottom. And stubbornness. She sat there without eating and without rising.

Problems, problems. The problem with me, according to my ex-wife, her family and her allies, was indolence. The problem with indolence was that it had resulted in my lacking employment, a condition that limited my capacity to spend money on her.
Interview | Global
Hari Kunzru J.P. O'Malley

Kunzru believes that thanks to technological advances human beings sometimes behave like robots. “We are kind of cyborgs already,” he says. “This is a cyborg operation, two people attached to the international phone network, able to speak to each other as a kind of assemblage of machines. The networks are also getting quite intimate with our bodies. We’re not too far off a lot of the functions currently in our phone handsets. It was once in a desktop, then it went onto our laps, now it’s in our hands, pretty soon it will be attached to our bodies, then one day maybe in our bodies. At that point we are going to be proper cyborgs.”

Memoir | USA
Making Pasta Sauce: My Independence Jennifer 8. Lee

Looking back, I suppose it was a strong statement about my faith in our relationship that I never even tried to learn how to make the tomato sauce. I assumed he would always be there to make it for me, until one day he was not.

So then it was time for me to make it for myself. If women often confront the psychological challenge of mastering their mother's secret recipe for comfort food, mine was to master my ex-boyfriend’s tomato sauce. Through the mental equivalent of the corner of my eye I had picked up some facts. I knew the secret ingredient was butter, something he discreetly neglected to mention when he made it for another woman who revealed on their date that she was vegan.
Photography | Hong Kong
The Neighbourhood Cha Chan Teng Rick Martin and John Batten
From The Editor
Travel | India
Tomatoes Erin Swan
Non-fiction | Japan
Japan and the Battle for Rice Lizzie Collingham: going to war to feed the nation
Non-fiction | Global
Dining with the Dead Sarah Murray
Non-fiction | Malaysia
Scavenging on Gold Mountain: of Food and Poetry Shirley Geok-lin Lim
Non-fiction | China
Sweet and Sour Fuchsia Dunlop
Non-fiction | China
Chop Suey Cinema Paul Fonoroff and Clarence Tsui get their teeth into Chinese cinema
Non-fiction | Asia
The World Food Crisis – An Asian Perspective Chandran Nair
Non-fiction | Asia
Review: Gods Without Men by Hari Kunzru Fionnuala McHugh
Non-fiction | Asia
Review: Indigo by Catherine McKinley Victoria Finlay
India Captain Chandrahas Choudhury
China Table d’Hôte Murong Xuecun
Hong Kong / Spain Fideuà Wena Poon
Anne Abad, Ha Kiet Chau, Chrissie Gittins, Reid Mitchell, Laksmi Pamuntjak, Michael Carlo C. Villas
Endpiece | China
My Kind of Town … Party Like it’s 1966 Clarissa Sebag-Montefiore in Beijing
 

When the tides of empire ebb, returnees and counter-colonists travel with them. So Britain has become a springboard for the worldwide projection of Indian food. The Netherlands has played a similar role for Malay dishes and France for those of the Maghrib and Vietnam. In the same period, globalisation, long-range mass tourism and worldwide migrations have demonstrated that the West is highly receptive to exotic innovation, while beyond the Middle East, the peoples of the eastern and southern extremities of Asia are far harder to wean onto alien cuisines. McDonald’s and Starbucks buck this trend – though one doubts whether their popularity has much to do with their food. Their customers in India, Japan and China seem rather to be choosing a “lifestyle option”.

— History à la Carte
  November 2012  
  August 2012  
  Spring 2012: Korea  
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Asian literature,Asian writers,Asian writing,Chinese literature,Chinese writing,Asian American writing